Liza Queen is something of a stunt pilot among chefs, a real risk taker. Eight years ago, when she opened Queen's Hideaway on Greenpoint's Franklin Avenue, she was squarely in the local and seasonal camp, serving a vegetable-heavy menu that leaned toward the American South. But her reverence for the niceties of consistency and predictability proved minimal, and a meal at her restaurant was often a bumpy ride. Some dishes thrilled you, while others clearly didn't work. You might have admired the quirky deviled ham pie and the verbena-chile dressing, but wondered at the adamantine-skin barbecued bunny. The place shuttered in 2008, just as the avenue that Queen pioneered began hopping with boutiques, restaurants, and bars.
Restaurant review, http://www.villagevoice.com/
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