Thursday, June 6, 2013

Restaurant review, Traditional Korean Skewers and Stews in the Flatiron District.


Twelve-hour ramyun is better than instant.
Servers trying to pass off a kitchen's laziness as whimsy will always tell you the food is going to "come out as it's ready," as if each small plate were a heavily medicated pop star and you were a hopeless fanboy. Don't fall for it. The appetizer-entrée format may be mostly dead (and good riddance to that old bore), but even a meal of shared plates will benefit from structure.
If you've any doubts about this, visit chef Hooni Kim's new spot in the Flatiron District, Hanjan. Much as at Danji, his Hell's Kitchen restaurant, the menu is set up with brief lists of traditional and contemporary Korean dishes, all of which are meant for sharing. This taxonomy is for the diner's benefit, but so is the careful order in which those dishes arrive, which is entirely different: cold dishes from either category first, then onto the small hot ones, graduating to skewers, and ending with larger hot plates.

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