Grillot ("gree-oh") is one of the glories of Haitian cooking. Fatty pork chunks are soaked in a citrus-shallot marinade, then simmered down until the reduction coats the surface of the meat. But we're not done yet. As the liquid boils away, lard oozes out, and the pork fries in the fat, turning the meat into knuckle-size rubies. It's quite the old-school French confit, pointing to the island's colonial roots. For the Haitian-food neophytes sitting around me on a recent Saturday afternoon at Cathedral, the grillot was electrifyingly good, dense and delicately fibrous, with both sour and salty dimensions. All conversation was forestalled by loud chewing.
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