One of the most beautiful things I've ever seen was the chef and television star Masaharu Morimoto take his knife to a whole fish. The man is a master of his craft, but he's also a celebrity, and his new restaurant, Tribeca Canvas, is like some greasy name dropper at a party with none of his famous friends' substance or style. If human civilization had been destroyed and the earth was a cultural wasteland, if all a young cook had to go on was a recipe collection preserved by T.G.I. Friday's, then he might come up with this flabby mash-up of a menu, on which every overwrought dish is an amalgam of international fast-casual concepts.
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