"You're waiting for a table next door?" the waitress presumes before even seating you, as if poor Hillside were a frumpy Crawley, called on to politely entertain guests until her more beautiful sister was ready.
It's true—Hillside is plainer than Vinegar Hill House, the romantic charmer on Hudson Avenue. Jean Adamson and Sam Buffa's newest spot doesn't have much of a kitchen, only a stone-paneled counter beside the bar that turns out a handful of dishes. Brian Leth is the chef of both places—though at Hillside you won't find that chicken-liver mousse cobbled with pistachios, or the pork chops flushed pink as a slapped buttock. But after a few minutes spent chatting with the staff about sour Spanish ciders, and dipping crunchy snap peas into a teeny ramekin of lemon vinaigrette, you may just want to pass the whole evening in Hillside's not-so-dowdy-after-all arms.
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