Twelve years ago, when Roberto Restaurant first appeared in Belmont—the Bronx's Little Italy—there weren't as many good dining spots as there are today. Back then, proto-foodies trekked to Arthur Avenue for the purpose of purchasing fresh raw bunny, perfect cannoli, Calabrian cheeses made in Pennsylvania, and to visit a wine store that offered two dozen Brunellos. But they dined as an afterthought. It wasn't that Roberto was so different in focus from the other restaurants there. Like the others, it still served a southern Italian menu. Roberto's, though, originated in the recent past rather than more than a century ago. In addition to furnishing amazing food, the place provided a fascinating glimpse of what Italian-American cuisine might have been had the full range of raw materials been readily available to immigrants 100 years ago.
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