Austrian food, in contrast, is perceived by the cognoscenti as almost spalike—not only lighter, but subtler and more sophisticated. It’s Captain von Trapp versus Augustus Gloop in the popular culinary imagination. While German cookery seems destined to live forever in kitschy, oompah-thumping, lederhosen-wearing infamy, Austrian cooking has managed to achieve grand status at places like the long-gone Vienna ’79, David Bouley’s Danube, and Kurt Gutenbrunner’s Wallsé. Gutenbrunner, in fact, has parlayed his Wallsé success into a mini Austro-American empire with the elegant Café Sabarsky and Thor at the Hotel on Rivington. So, imagine the Underground Gourmet’s surprise to learn that the Austrian-born chef was billing his latest venture, Blaue Gans, as a “German-Austrian” bistro of sorts.
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