All ambitious restaurateurs are obsessed with style and décor, especially those unfortunate souls who must peddle to the hordes of fickle, fashion-conscious eaters downtown. At Bobo, in the West Village, the proprietors have gone to obsessive lengths to capture the “Faux Speakeasy” style, which first began in bars on the Lower East Side and quickly spread to trendy restaurants like Freemans and the Waverly Inn. The basement entrance of the townhouse restaurant is conspicuously unmarked. To get to the dining room, you must duck into a candlelit lounge area and climb up a rickety flight of stairs. The dining-room tables are set with guttering candles, too, and the room is fitted with tastefully rummaged knickknacks (glass-bead chandeliers, an hourglass, carefully arranged old-master knockoffs on the walls), along with a bookshelf casually stocked, like a summer rental in the Hamptons, with random volumes by Escoffier and Alan Dershowitz.
Restaurant review, http://nymag.com/
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