Nothing in the restaurant world lends itself to over-the-top self parody quite like a steakhouse. To stand out amid the thundering herd of artisanal chophouses, Peter Luger knockoffs, and Kobe-beef parlors, restaurateurs resort to all kinds of gimmicks. They hang samurai swords from their ceilings (Kobe Club), advertise their cattle’s pedigree to a ridiculously effete degree (Craftsteak), and lard their hamburgers with Kobe beef (Old Homestead). So you have to admire Stephen Hanson for at least choosing his gimmicks carefully. You will find no weaponry dangling from the rafters of Hanson’s new steakhouse, Primehouse New York, and the menu is mercifully free of Kobe or Wagyu beef. There is, however, a discreet “Himalayan Salt Room” where special cuts of “limited availability” are set to age. And as far as I know, Primehouse is alone among local steakhouses in having its own Black Angus stud bull, named Prime, who lives on a farm in Kentucky, where he works tirelessly to sire choice beef cattle on the restaurant’s behalf.
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