Restaurants are as susceptible to fashion as anything else in this fashion-obsessed city, although news of the latest trends tends to reach some parts of town slower than others. This is famously true of the Upper West Side, of course, which is to the more stylish downtown dining precincts of New York what Canada’s vast, ice-bound Yukon Territory is to, say, Montreal. In recent years, however, practiced downtown chefs like Tom Valenti (Ouest) and Didier Virot (Aix) have had success peddling their versions of trendy cooking in this formerly stark environment.
Now comes Bill Telepan, whose eponymous restaurant opened several weeks ago on a quiet stretch of West 69th Street. Telepan, who made his reputation at the once-popular and now-defunct JUdson Grill in midtown, turns out to be an avowed Greenmarketeer, which means Upper West Siders, at long last, can enjoy the kind of preciously highbrow seasonal cooking that has been on display for several years now at fashionable downtown establishments like Blue Hill and Craft.
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