Superfluous truffle-strewn dinners are the first thing to go during times of economic distress, along with the personal shopper and those extra six pairs of Christian Louboutin shoes. But this year in restaurant-land, this age-old pattern seems, curiously, to have been reversed. As the economy heads inexorably south, grandiose new restaurants have been proliferating around town like rabbits. Alain Ducasse and Daniel Boulud have both recently opened high-profile, high-end dining establishments. The old Oak Room, in the new Plaza condos, is scheduled to come back on line soon, and with John Fraser’s fine restaurant, Dovetail, it’s possible, for the first time in modern memory, to enjoy a three-star meal on the West Side above 64th Street. The latest arrival to the party is Eighty One, which has opened off the lobby of the Excelsior Hotel, on West 81st Street. As with many of the fancy new joints around town, there is a name chef in the kitchen—in this case, Ed Brown, who toiled most recently at the Sea Grill, in Rockefeller Center. Seven of the eight entrées on the menu cost over $30. And for an extra $42, you can scatter the finest black truffles on anything you choose.
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