"I feel like I’m being led to my safe-deposit box,” someone muttered as we navigated our way through the cavernous, cement-walled rooms at Buddakan, the latest and by far the largest mega–dining palace to open in New York City this year, or possibly ever. Gleaming Mercedes Maybach limousines (okay, one gleaming Maybach limousine) idled outside on the corner of Ninth Avenue and 16th Street, along with assorted other Town Cars and big-money automobiles. By the entrance of what used to be a Nabisco cookie factory, groups of women waited for their dates, their faces illuminated by the firefly glow of open cell phones. Inside the immense (16,000 square feet) space, people congregated around a hotel-style reception desk to “check in” at their tables. Beyond the reception desk is the bar area, as big as the waiting room in a good-size train station, and twice as crowded. Down below the bar are the dining rooms, in an area so vast and potentially confusing that the slinky hostesses had to guide parties of diners down to their tables, like Sherpas on an expedition.
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