Judging by its name, La Superior has a pretty high opinion of itself, and on the basis of the cheap and delicious snackathons the U.G. enjoyed there recently, we’d have to say it’s well deserved. And that’s despite the lack of customary restaurant trappings like wine and beer (the license is forthcoming), a credit-card machine (bring cash), any sort of meal pacing (dishes arrive haphazardly, with Usain Bolt–ian swiftness), and even, on occasion, adequate silverware (fortunately, most of the menu is finger-friendly). But none of those things really matter in the realm of Mexican street food, La Superior’s chosen milieu. What counts most is the toothsomeness of the griddled corn masa, the piquancy of the salsas, and the tenderness of the pork in the cochinita pibil. On these fronts, La Superior excels, and the cool music and friendly service don’t hurt either.
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