New Brooklyn Cuisine, or NBC, as the Underground Gourmet has asserted before in these pages, is a very specific subgenre of the more familiar New American Cuisine. It flourishes in the bucolic hinterlands of Boerum Hill and Prospect Heights, the low country of Carroll Gardens and Williamsburg, and the great plains of Park Slope, and has as its common denominator a very New York culinary sophistication melded with a wistfully agrarian passion for the artisanal, the sustainably grown, and the homespun. Good examples of the genre are Applewood, iCi, and especially Franny’s, which is essentially a classic NBC restaurant masquerading as a pizzeria. Practitioners tend to be mom-and-pop shops, in fact or feeling, and they cater to a clientele of idealistic gastronomes who quote Michael Pollan and split shares in the local CSA.
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