While top whisks like Ed Brown and Daniel Boulud made noise about braving the Upper West Side, Vai slipped quietly into its modest, handsomely mirrored space on West 77th, quickly winning fans for its savory oval pizzettas—try the three-cheese tomato—and lush pastas. We’re wild about rigatoni with spicy sausage, and the creamy truffled ravioli. With tables both tall and normal, and doors thrown open to the street on a mild night, Vai clearly wants to be a wine bar, offering charcuterie and cheese plates, and more for the hungry. The kitchen creeps on a busy night, but the server brings a giveaway of olive oil, chopped marinated tomatoes, and eggplant-mascarpone spread to pile on toast, smilingly replacing it during our long wait. We love grilled calamari with lemon preserve and capers, clams roasted under a crust of andouille and lemony bread crumbs. Vai wants to play big-time, with a chef’s menu, a flight of five wines for two to share at $75 each, and a small-bites menu with tastes of seven wines for $69.
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