During times of bounty on the great, wide restaurant savanna, the animals get fat. In lean times, they adapt to the harsh conditions or expire slowly in the heat. With food costs sky-high and Wall Street payrolls being slashed, big-money New York restaurateurs are beginning to seek shade wherever they can find it. An unlucky few are going out of business, others are trimming menus and canceling grandiose expansion plans, and many more seem to be retooling tired old operations in an attempt to make them look new. The art of the makeover is an ancient tradition in the restaurant world, but these days, many of the “new” high-profile restaurants in town seem to have former lives. In Soho, the old French bistro Provence was recently reintroduced to the dining public as Hundred Acres, and Jean-Georges’s star-crossed dim sum parlor, 66, has returned as the glorified soba joint Matsugen. Now comes Convivio, the ambitious reimagining of an upscale Italian restaurant in Tudor City that not so long ago was called L’Impero.
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