As the urban barnyard craze continues to roll inexorably across the restaurant landscape, owners of aging pasta joints and formerly fashionable French bistros face some tricky decisions. Where do you obtain a steady supply of fresh summer peas, not to mention enough rusting farm implements to decorate your city dining space? And where do you find a properly rustic name that doesn’t sound faintly ridiculous in this metropolis of 8 million nonfarmers? Vicki Freeman and Marc Meyer have settled on Hundred Acres as the name for their new Macdougal Street venture, which once upon a time was a bistro called Provence. Frisée salad has been replaced on the menu by dandelion greens, and instead of plush banquettes diners now perch on rickety chairs and hardwood benches. Devotees of the venerable French restaurant may also be saddened to hear that the lovely garden room in the back is now lined, like a greenhouse, with a row of hastily assembled potted plants.
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