No longer just a borough, Brooklyn is now a brand, an ideology, a way of life. And Breuckelen, a new Cobble Hill eatery, certainly embraces what has become known as Kings County cuisine: local, seasonal, new American fare that champions the ideals of farm living within a decidedly urban environment. The menu changes often, though chef Andrew Karasz thankfully does not spout a holier-than-thou organic dogma or write out the name of farm, farmer, and pig that have provided your dinner. The restaurant, however, doesn’t execute food as deftly as some of its pioneering neighbors, such as Carroll Gardens’ Prime Meats or Williamsburg’s Marlow & Sons. Breuckelen is a decent local spot, but like most neighborhood joints, it falls short of being a destination—especially when entrées come tagged with Manhattan prices.
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