Restaurant review, Red Rooster—the Swede Smell of Success.

There's a new brightness and lightness to Marcus Samuelsson's cooking, unlike anything he's done before. Not at Riingo, not at Aquavit, not even at Merkato 55, where he dabbled in the cuisines of Africa. Perhaps celebrity chefdom came too early for him: With his slender good looks, winning smile, and captivating born-in-Ethiopia/raised-in-Sweden backstory, he was famous before he had a chance to fully come into his own culinarily. At Red Rooster he finally has, effortlessly blending East African, Scandinavian, and North American influences in a wacky fusion that somehow works. That light touch is shown as soon as the starters hit the table. From the list of bar snacks (which could also serve as apps, shaving dollars off your tab) comes the dish simply labeled "nuts" ($4). Cashews, almonds, and peanuts—each with its own fascinating spice rub—duke it out with dried sour cherries and crisp swatches of injera, the Ethiopian flatbread. This trail mix is so good, you'll want to keep a bag of it in your desk drawer. African, too, are the miniature beef patties ($5), resembling sambusas found on the streets of Addis Ababa. But a surprise is in store—the dipping sauce of pale green tomatillo would do a Mexican mama proud. This is international fusion at its most effortless and apt.

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