Small plates continue to take over New York City, sucking the gullible into paying big bucks for tiny bites. Yes, the fad lets you graze across the board, but most often it leaves you overcharged and underfed. So how can a chef still make midget mouthfuls sound enticing? Why, invent a new word for this type of joint, of course! Behold Jody Williams's Buvette, a self-described "gastroteque" in the West Village. The same tricks apply at this Francophilic spot, only here—quelle surprise—you'll actually leave charmed and with your belly full. This might be because Williams previously perfected the genre (with an Italian slant) at nearby Gottino. Yet while her old spot always felt cramped, this new venture feels airy and relaxed despite being a narrow space. The décor marries the hallmarks of French bistro-dom—brick walls, pressed-tin ceilings, long marble bar—with an eclectic, bohemian flair (mismatched mirrors, old-fashioned stools, a fantastic chandelier created by Warren Muller from found objects, including wire baskets and a flute).
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