Todd English, the celebrity chef and restaurateur with a publicly beleaguered love life, gained infamy in recent years for his issues with commitment. And it's hard not to wonder if his "love 'em and leave 'em" MO will plague his professional endeavors, too, as he spreads himself thin across the city's burners. In the past year alone, he has debuted Ça Va and the Plaza Food Court. Now comes his latest darling, Ember Room, a barbecue restaurant with Asian influences, whose menu he created along with Ian Chalermkittichai. Both English and Chalermkittichai have proven themselves talented in the kitchen. Anyone who ate at Olives or Kittichai in their heyday can attest to that. Unfortunately, this new venture doesn't live up to either of those hot spots. Unlike Brooklyn's Fatty 'Cue, which deliciously fuses Far East flavors with an American sensibility, Ember Room succumbs to the pitfalls of pan-Asian takeout—plates arrive battered by sweetness and abandoned by spice.
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