Few recent openings have created as much controversy as that of Empellon (“Push”), located just off Sheridan Square at the quizzical corner of West 4th and West 10th. The chef is Alex Stupak, former pastry chef at Wylie Dufresne’s temple of molecular gastronomy, WD~50. Why would one of the city’s most respected dessert makers leave the realm of fondants and foams to open a glorified taqueria? Well, he hasn’t completely abandoned pastries yet—but more about that later. The restaurant is divided by a long hallway into two rooms. The barroom in front is casual and cacophonous, with dark, sturdy furniture and a mural on one wall that looks like intestines on fire. The rear room is just as noisy, but the décor is more serene, with white brick, pale brocaded wallpaper, and lots of eclectic art, arranged by someone who takes great pleasure in aligning things. The service, though efficient, is somewhat annoying due to the upselling: “Can we start you off with some of our excellent guacamole?” the waitress wheedled, touching my shoulder and smiling sweetly. Don’t answer in the affirmative, because the iconic avocado dip ($10) proves disappointing, delivered cold as if it had languished in the refrigerator, the cilantro wilted and devoid of zip.
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