Imagine if the diner as we know it—an institution run by Greek immigrants seeking to reproduce the standard Middle American menu of 50 years ago at a low price point—had evolved as a Latin phenomenon instead. That’s the premise behind Coppelia, a new 24-hour restaurant near the corner of 14th Street and Seventh Avenue from chef Julian Medina of Yerba Buena and Toloache. In service of the concept, the place looks like a diner—after you’ve dropped a hit of acid, that is. The color scheme is wacky, with frosting-green and Oompa-Loompa-orange wall treatments, teal-blue storm shutters, and light baffles evoking the tropics with overlapping images: conga drums, lemons, pansies, pink flamingos, and, somewhat randomly, silhouettes of Josephine Baker. An altogether pleasant place to sit if the interior decoration doesn’t make you a bit queasy.
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