Many of our best Mexican restaurants morphed out of bodegas. There on the shelves sat ripe avocados, cactus paddles, deep-red chilies, sacks of masa, rubbery Oaxacan cheeses, fragrant papalo leaves, piles of pinto beans, and freshly made white-corn tortillas—why not turn them into a full-blown Mexican menu? And that's what the bodegas did, in locations as far-flung as Hell's Kitchen, Sunset Park, West Farms, Stapleton, and Corona. One of the newest to vault the fence from grocery to café is Cholulita on Brooklyn's Broadway, right on the border of Bed-Stuy and Bushwick. The name refers to Cholula, a town on the outskirts of the city of Puebla that was a center of Toltec civilization prior to the arrival of Cortés, and has a great pyramid to prove it.
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