Restaurant review, Graffit and the Cubist Foodist.

Is there a more polarizing food than foam? Maybe tripe or liver, but what is it about a mound of tiny, flavored bubbles? Perhaps what incites groans and eye rolls isn't the froth itself but what it embodies—overly precious and theatrical cooking that makes a spectacle out of dining and leaves the customer perplexed. Those dirty words: molecular gastronomy. At Graffit, a new eatery near Lincoln Center, foam decorates many plates, alongside "olive oil texture," "bell pepper caviar," and "Tio Pepe Fino air." The restaurant, run by Madrid's enfant terrible Jesús Núñez, takes a Modernist approach to Spanish fare. While not everything is a smash success, the food is playful and visually compelling. If you don't like experimental cuisine, though, stick to eating boneless, skinless chicken breast elsewhere.

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