When it comes to Midtown dining, New Yorkers face two options: ultra-luxe expense-account meccas à la Le Bernardin, or fluorescent-lit steam-table joints. A cool, reasonably priced eatery there is as rare as finding a straight, sexy, single man in this town. (If you are one, get in touch—you’ll find my e-mail address below.) The fancy fungus does better in a velvety sauce that coats gnocchi studded with lobster chunks ($26)—an entrée that might answer the question “How many rich, upscale ingredients can you cram into one bowl?” Yet the plate has an ethereal quality thanks to a process of sous-vide cooking and roasting, which helps the spuds retain their starch, avoiding a heavy glut in the stomach. But my favorite pasta—and probably my number-one item overall here—is the $24 porchetta ravioli with smoked ricotta, broccoli rabe, and a runny poached egg. Equally piggy and eggy, this indulgence redefines “breakfast for dinner.” Or tuck into good ol’ American comfort with the heritage pork rack ($28), paired with savory apple pie and bourbon sauce.
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