Three burn marks scarred a menu. Red wine stained another. Amateur-hour mistakes, maybe acceptable at T.G.I. Friday's, but not at a chic restaurant like Mehtaphor. Yet on my second visit, the same. And again on the third. "It's on purpose," my waiter finally explained. "The chef likes it that way. It shows the evolution of the menu and dining experience. It keeps you thinking."
Or gives the owner an excuse for not ponying up for a printer. But if ever a guy kept diners guessing, it would be Jehangir Mehta, the experimental pastry chef who inched into the savory world with his minuscule East Village debut, Graffiti. Equally eclectic in scope is this follow-up venture, located inside Tribeca's Duane Street Hotel. Seating about 45, the slightly cramped dining room features a cool, contemporary design that balances minimalism with flashes of whimsy (pendant chandeliers, bright pillows). Hotel dining for the noncorporate set.
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