Until recently, dining on Mulberry Street meant suffering through bland penne alla vodka or lackluster veal Marsala. But then quietly over the past year, the stretch of pavement between Prince and Spring transformed into a veritable oasis for omnivores. The most recent addition, Rubirosa (235 Mulberry Street, 212-965-0500), harkens back to when red-and-white-checkered tablecloths ruled the ’hood, but it elevates the classic red-sauce cuisine of yore. The pizza crust, thin and crisp like flatbread, shatters in your teeth with a loud crunch. The classic pie ($15) impresses, and the vodka-sauced version ($16) even more so, but most enticing is the one topped with bright broccoli rabe, roasted garlic cloves, and thinly sliced sausage. Bitter, sweet, salty, and gooey—what more could you want, save maybe an antacid chaser?
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