Perhaps the world's oldest city, Varanasi is also Hinduism's holiest site. It lies on the banks of the Ganges River in Uttar Pradesh, a state in northeastern India that borders Nepal. The city is home to the famous burning ghats—steps that descend to the water where religious ablutions are performed, and dead bodies are committed to fire on makeshift wooden biers, after which the remains are tossed into the river. It is said that if you die in Varanasi, you'll achieve instant enlightenment. Although I hoped for an epiphany, I had no intention of dying for it as I stepped into the new restaurant on 56th Street called Benares—the Anglicized name of Varanasi. Somewhat disappointingly, the decor does little to evoke the city itself. (What did I expect? A crematorium?) Sure, there are little framed examples of indigenous needlework, but these are barely noticeable compared with the faux Tiffany chandelier, tall and stately yellow banquettes, and generic upscale feel of the place.
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