It's an unsettling start to the summer when the phrase "zombie apocalypse" is tossed about so often, followed by nervous laughter. But there's nothing like "herring with sour cream and boiled vegetables" to strike fear into my heart. Will the flesh of that poor, innocent fish be pulped by acid, the cream fizzing with age, or the vegetables waterlogged? At Landbrot, the German all-day café and bakery in the West Village, the herring salad ($11.50) is styled like a holiday platter from the 1950s, everything piled symmetrically on an oval platter of lettuce, but the horrors end there. The pieces of gentle, wine-soused herring are in a fresh sour cream dressing. It might not be splendid, but it is pleasant.
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