My friend Bobby is an Indian food expert. So when I dragged him to Chote Nawab for the first time, he ran his practiced eye over the menu till it stopped at tunde ke kebab ($9). "This dish from Lucknow, in northeast India, was invented long ago for a toothless old royal family member who still craved lamb kebabs," Bobby told me. He went on: "And nowadays, the best restaurants in that part of India hire a special cook to make it. That's all he does."
About the size of a half-pound burger, the macerated lamb patty sizzles in a cast-iron skillet on a bed of purple onions, charred on both sides and crowned with cilantro. It has the damp slipperiness of a tartare, and a heavenly smell rises up as the app is delivered to the table. You'll never taste anything more tender.
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