The advent of Mission Chinese Food on Orchard Street in May was one of the prime events of the season and ushered in an era of good feeling that saw the city's food celebrities in an ebullient mood and in total agreement. They trooped through the restaurant's narrow subterranean passageways, past an open kitchen, and thronged three deep by the bar in the remote dining room—wildly decorated with chairs dangling from the ceiling, red Chinese lanterns that cast a pink glow, and a snarling dragon, mouth agape. The scrum included critics, bloggers, editors of glossy food mags, and French superchef Daniel Boulud, who was seen, rather absurdly, teaching the kitchen staff how to make an omelet.
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