Brooklyn at dusk. The sky stretched out like a neon T-shirt. Beautiful women in red lips and men in vintage eyeglasses lounge in a converted waterfront factory and nibble on pastured meat. They drink artisanal liquor until they fall into bunk beds built from the guts of an old barrel yard. The Wythe Hotel, which opened in April, might have been conceived by a writer, setting up a parody of Williamsburg circa 2012. But it's the latest project from Andrew Tarlow, the Brooklyn restaurateur, and it rises quite earnestly from the expensive, postindustrial shores of the East River. It was more than a decade ago that Tarlow rehabbed an old diner in Williamsburg that charmed the city with scrappy, effortless locavorism. Tarlow followed Diner with Marlow & Sons, Marlow & Daughters, and Roman's. Of course, the new hotel has put a lot of thought into the food. It has even done away with room service in favor of a farm-to-table restaurant, named for an anthropomorphic fox, no less: Reynards.
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