Let's face it: The city's Uzbek restaurants are often a pain in the ass. They're invariably banquet-oriented. That makes getting a reservation for your small party difficult, and it also means, if you try just walking in, you might find the dining room jammed with noisy special-occasion celebrants seated 30 to a table and already tipsy from the vodka bottles that are the center of attention. Serving banquets sometimes also generates a depraved indifference to the quality of the food on the part of the management: Groaning tables of fish, pickles, salads, and potted meats can be set out hours before, and, if you manage to score a table, your apps might be no fresher.
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