Know this: Every time you wave away the dessert menu without even looking at it, a cook's heart shatters like a pane of burnt sugar. Every pastry chef dreams of hitting us with their bill of fare while we've got an edge of hunger and dignity, and the light in our eyes hasn't died, but instead he has to deal with us at the end of the evening. If he's to woo us, he must do it when we're full, perhaps a little drunk, willing (maybe) to split a slice of cake among ourselves but often preferring to skip it altogether for just a coffee and the check, please.
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