For the first century of its existence as an iconic New York food, pizza was easy to define: crust, tomato sauce, cheese. Sure, there were variations that sprung up from time to time. The ziti slice surprised us, and so did the white pizza, the tomato sauce having gone AWOL. Imitations of the original Naples pie diverted our attention, but like other innovations, this one remained reverently within the canon of pizza as we know it—only smaller. Eventually, someone had to throw baby and bathwater out the window at the same time, and it has finally happened at a small pizzeria in an obscure corner of Crown Heights.
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