Halfway through our meal, the avuncular proprietor leaned over to explain a '60s Egyptian TV show that flickered in black and white on the wall-mounted flat-screen. "It's like Seinfeld," he said, chuckling, "a show about a poor husband and his wealthy wife, who can't tell a turnip from a banana." Three friends and I were dining one evening in Astoria's El Omda restaurant, found in a bucolic neighborhood of squat brick apartment buildings and tidy frame houses that feels remote from the bustling business district of 30th Avenue to the south. Apart from the squawking TV, the dining room is similarly serene, decorated with historic travel posters advising you to Visit the Pyramids and hanging metal lanterns that shoot beams through irregular swatches of colored glass onto tablecloths featuring such Pharaonic motifs as Nefertiti, Ra, and the ankh.
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