A little girl is standing at the entrance to Foragers City Table and reading the menu to her father as he taps away on his BlackBerry. "Hey, Daddy, what's crépinettes? What's yuzu? What's prickly ash?" He doesn't know the answers, and he isn't in the mood to look them up, so eventually they go elsewhere for dinner. It's a shame, because the new Chelsea restaurant could have fed them well. The consulting chef, Douglas Monsalud, runs a catering company in San Francisco and uses Asian ingredients in that easygoing Californian way. He employs only a touch of heat, and the menu appears to have been edited for a G rating. Those crépinettes, for example, would have been ideal to keep two small hands busy: a couple of sausage patties cooked in a lacy petticoat of caul fat that arrive with spears of raw cucumber, crushed peanuts, lettuce cups, and a nuoc cham sauce made soft with Meyer lemon juice ($12).
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