Formerly known as David's Taiwanese Gourmet, then Lin's Taiwanese Gourmet, the long-running Elmhurst restaurant with the green awning at the corner of Broadway and St. James, just two blocks south of the LIRR tracks, is now called Taiwanese Specialties. The nation officially dubbed the Republic of China boasts one of the world's great fusion cuisines, along with Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Sicily. What do they have in common? All are islands located along ancient trade routes. When I first wrote about the restaurant in 1998, it specialized in the Japanese aspects of Taiwanese cuisine and featured a décor that highlighted a sushi bar flaunting unusual nori rolls, an antique rice-polishing machine, and photos of kimono-clad women.
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