Restaurant review, The Wild Brew Yonder at Birreria.

It's been nearly six years since Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich opened a real restaurant in the city. Yes, they are nominally responsible for all of Eataly, which includes a series of perch-and-dine culinary counters, each focused on a single set of commodities, and Manzo, an excellent refectory in a drafty hallway that sometimes seems like a promotional stunt for beef. But now the pair has premiered the unpronounceable Birreria, a beer garden on the roof of the office building that houses Eataly. There's something off about it, too, but at least it feels like a real Batali-Bastianich production.

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