Five years ago, news that a protégé of Spanish chef Ferran Adrià—the guru of molecular gastronomy—was coming to NYC would have turned out hordes of diners obsessed with foam, fog, and other fantastic transformations of familiar foods by color, shape, and texture. Now, not so much. Mercado on Kent, the new venue of Adrià-apprenticed chef Peru Amandoz, opened on a rainy night in December, and almost nobody came. It lay in the shadow of the former Domino sugar factory in Williamsburg, a dark, forbidding waterfront quarter only now being populated by small rock clubs and quirky start-up businesses. Atypically, the restaurant was newly constructed, a striking corner building faced with gray metal, its roof rising from back to front like a ski jump. It might as well have been picked up by a tornado somewhere in Barcelona and set down here.
Read more at http://www.villagevoice.com/
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