Mention Jackson Heights, and Indian boutiques and restaurants instantly spring to mind. But gradually the neighborhood has been changing, as businesses from Nepal, Bhutan, and Tibet have moved in. Latest to arrive is Phayul ("Fatherland"), a Tibetan café that occupies a second-story space at the corner of 37th Road and 74th Street, a yak turd's throw from the subway stop. Though the banner flapping high up above is easy to spot, finding the restaurant is more of a challenge: An obscure door on 37th Road leads past computer-repair and beauty-product stalls, up a steep, cluttered stairway that bends acutely to the right. Having completed the upward trek, you find yourself in a veritable Shangri-La, where tables vertiginously peer down upon the colorfully dressed shopping throngs below, as a framed photo of the Dalai Lama beams benevolently from the wall above the cash register.
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