What does "American cuisine" mean? Andrew Carmellini, the chef at the Dutch, a new Soho restaurant, might argue that if someone has ever served a dish in the United States at any point in time, it's American. Perhaps tiring of the simple art of Italian cooking at his highly regarded Tribeca restaurant, Locanda Verde, Carmellini has branched out to the former Cub Room. His bill of fare hopscotches across our mighty country while giving props to Japan, Mexico, Italy, and beyond. Yet the space feels quintessentially New York: cream-painted brick walls reminiscent of subway tiles, wooden banquettes and clubby booths, oversize windows fronting Prince and Sullivan streets, mid-century-esque chandeliers (inspired by those at Waffle House!), a flash of Keith Haring on the wall.
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