What do you call a pop-up that gets a permanent home? A plop-down, perhaps? It's a timely question, since Maharlika has gone brick-and-mortar on First Avenue in the East Village after spending much of 2011 as a temporary, roving Filipino restaurant. The eatery is just a few blocks south of Sa Aming Nayon, another Filipino newcomer that was featured in these pages in July. While its northern neighbor specializes in casual home-style cuisine, this spot bills itself as "Filipino moderno." Now, "moderno" is often a code word for "high prices for small portions of gentrified food," but that's not to say everything here has been altered for American appetites: You'll still find balut ("third-trimester aborted duck," as a dining companion called it) and cheese-flavored ice cream.
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