In the '90s, if you told friends you were going to a tapas bar, they'd look at you funny and wonder what the hell you were talking about. Yes, the city had tapas, but they represented a limited collection of salty snacks encountered in the fusty, red-upholstered barrooms of the city's most ancient Spanish restaurants. These places were often located on obscure side streets in Greenwich Village or Chelsea, and dated to the aftermath of the Spanish Civil War. The tapas were restricted to a handful, including toasts draped with pale pickled anchovies or cured Serrano ham, a small serving of garlic shrimp, or—if you were lucky—a chorizo that the waiter set aflame with brandy.
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