On my most memorable visit to Kutsher's Tribeca, I went with three generations of a family who might be seen as Catskills royalty. The grandparents came up from the bungalow colonies—where many Lower East Side Jews summered in the '50s and '60s—and later bought a vacation home for themselves and their children in Smallwood, a resort community built in the log-cabin-style southeast of White Lake. Their youngest son, now middle-age, was bar mitzvahed at Kutsher's Resort just outside of Monticello and eventually worked there as a waiter. I asked him what the food was like back then, and without pausing, he snorted, "Not too great."
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