Five years ago, I rounded up a dozen friends and took them on a taco crawl along Roosevelt Avenue, from Flushing Meadows to Jackson Heights. Our purpose was to try a taco or two from every vendor we could find, including trucks, carts, and storefronts. In addition to a handful of palate-cleansing quesadillas featuring things like squash blossoms and corn smut, we ate 48 tacos in total. The collective favorite came from a humble cart known as Tacos Morelos planted at the corner of 94th Street. Something called a taco placeros ("market taco") blew our minds: a freshly made tortilla wrapped around a cheese-oozing chile relleno still hot from the fat. And there was some rice dumped in there, too. Suddenly, a vegetarian taco handily bested all the meat-laden ones that had gone before.
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