Restaurant review, Daniel Boulud Goes Cruising.

In front, find a sparsely furnished barroom, seating perhaps 40 walk-ins, with a luxurious amount of room between tables. Beyond that, a deep dining chamber with a ceiling that undulates in great waves, as if you were standing on your head and gazing seaward. The décor is spiffily European, defined by parallel rows of striped banquettes. At the end of the room, a pair of impressionist landscapes that look like Napa Valley might have been done by Cézanne—if he'd ever visited California. Apart from those oases of brilliant color, nearly everything else is beige. Most remarkably, a narrow window looking into the kitchen runs the entire length of the dining room, revealing the boogying shoulders of the 10 or so cooks and little else.

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