Rosarito Fish Shack is an establishment that, perhaps too cannily, mixes a pair of current trends into one restaurant package. The first is the mania for fish tacos, found on dozens of bistro, gastropub, and margarita-mill menus around town. The second is the notion of a rustic shore café, the kind you stumble on in Maine or Maryland, then rave about to your friends back home. The idea received one of its earliest evocations here at Mary's Fish Shack, situated in the West Village though supposedly set in Florida, but there have been many imitators. Mexico's Baja Peninsula is the fantasy locale in this case—which is also the place where fish tacos were invented. It's like two old pals finally being reunited.
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