The Left Bank isn't just the part of Paris where the intellectual elite (and their wannabes) debated Sartre and chain-smoked Gauloises. It's also what we used to call the West Village. Bohemians and radicals once flocked there, too—before software moguls and celebrities nabbed up all the real estate. A new restaurant in the heart of the 'hood—the corner of Perry and Greenwich streets, to be exact—pays homage in name to that era of revelry and rebellion. Formerly housing Braeburn, the bright space has been stripped down for a subdued yet modern feel. There's very little décor of note, save for a smattering of charcoal portraits in the barroom depicting the likes of Diane Keaton (circa Annie Hall) and "Prop Joe" from the TV show The Wire. (The owner is a fan, I was told.) An austere setting can work if the kitchen's output requires every millisecond of your attention (à la Per Se). But that's not the case here. Although the food and exceptionally friendly service more than pass muster, the culinary creativity is, well, lacking.
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